The men’s collections have become increasingly experimental over the last couple of seasons. As fluidity and queerness have become trending topics in pop culture (thanks in part to the stylish Harry Styles, Lil Nas X, Troye Sivan, and Bad Bunny) and as runways have started to feature non-binary and trans models in their castings, designers are redefining menswear for a world less interested in the usual shape of masculinity. In come the experiments. It was a year ago that Fendi’s cropped jackets made the bare midriff a must for men. This time around, suiting got a style update with designers foregoing mid layers in favor of a casual, shirtless look, while revealing mesh-like tops and airy sweaters were the season’s go-to knits. Cropped tops, no tops, low rise pants, no pants! It’s all about skin for next spring.
Jonathan Anderson and the Prada duo leaned into childish innocence, with the first focusing on silliness and play and the latter on boyish proportions. Jeans went baggy and shorts went long as the likes of Fendi and Alyx looked to channel the coolness of ’90s California kids. Canadian tuxedos got trippy remixes, and stylists proved to be just as indecisive as customers as they layered jackets over jackets and pants over pants (I mean, why choose?). Patchwork, too, is on everyone’s minds. Some went sporty. Martine Rose, Ahluwalia, and Emporio Armani showed tracksuits, and Marine Serre went all out with fitness gear. On that note, it’s worth mentioning that many popular athletes including Russell Westbrook, Dwayne Wade, and Kyle Kuzma sat front row at the shows. Make no mistake, the new shape of masculinity has not shifted its focus to a few, it’s grown to include all.
The current state of the world has everyone longing for their youths. Ernest W. Baker, Hed Mayner, Egonlab, and Sacai explored school uniforms, while Jonathan Anderson got playful with bike handles and broken skateboards and Prada gave their logo a rickrack treatment over ginghams. Forget just listening to your inner child, it’s time to dress like them, too. Every menswear season designers try to reinvent the suit. Fall was all about bulging shoulders and nipped waists, but spring is for leaving your shirt home. Double breasted jackets cut in relaxed shapes and styled sans-top dominated the runway this season, making their way into collections from Versace to Amiri, Ahluwalia to Moschino.
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